Grapes grow anywhere, but best in certain areas

EN VINO VERITAS

By Noble Collins

Gazette Columnist

Why must a great “First Growth” red wine comes from Bordeaux or Burgundy only, you might ask. The grapes grown there can be grown almost anywhere.

The answer comes from the French term “Terroir” which basically means land. In horse racing circles, you will frequently hear the adage, “horses for courses,” meaning some horses run better on particular race tracks. In wine terminology the best wines come from the best terroir or pieces of land, which bring out the best quality of the particular grape grown there.

Look at it this way: Let’s say I have ten marbles in my hand – each a different size and labeled with a different grape name. I also have a board with ten holes of varying sizes; each marked with a geographic name. Each marble will only fit into its matching hole. The marbles will seek out their best fit.

It might take hundreds of years, but when a certain grape is found to reach its absolute zenith in a certain area, it will be grown there under the most protective and productive circumstances. It will also draw the finest winemakers to extract the highest qualities from the grape and create wine of extraordinary appeal. These are the great wines in the world. They are great in the same way a Rolls Royce is a great automobile.

The French government has mandated a heirachy of properties based upon the consistent quality of their product . The system is known as AOC.

Each area has its best land and concentrates on specific grapes that thrive there. In Bordeaux, it is Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In Burgundy, it is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are used in the Champagne district to make marvelous sparkling wines. They are the only grapes grown there, and the soil is really so chalky and poor that it’s a wonder any grapes grow at all.

Early wines made there contained sulfuric bubbles, which spoiled them. Someone had a hunch about the bubbles, though.

In the warmer areas of France, along the Rhone River, Districts like Vaqueras, Gigondas, Chatuneuf-Du-Pape and others grow Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier as their best examples. There again, you must know the area and the best properties to know the wine.

(Incidentally, the same goes for distilled spirits like Cognac and Armagnac. These are place names.)

We could also discuss the many wines being made in Italy, such as Chianti, Borolo, Asti, etc. The same rigid rules apply. Lately, Italy has allowed the use of varietal names such as Pinot Grigio to some extent.

German wine labels are probably the hardest to read and understand. Almost all their wine is made from Riesling, but it is important to know where it is made. Wines along the great rivers, such as Mosel, Saar, Rhur, and Rhine vary greatly in style and taste. Germans frequently throw in another piece of information on their labels to show their sugar levels or distinguish when the grapes were picked. 

(Watch for details on an exciting new series of wine tastings featuring Noble Collins to benefit Rim Country Friends of Ferals.)