Wine is fine, but brandy is dandy

En Vino Veritas
Great brandies, like great marriages, are expensive


By Noble Collins
Gazette Columnist
There are two ways to isolate alcohol from natural food by-products. In each case they involve freeing the alcohol from its chemical bondage with sugar.

Any food substance which produces natural sugar can be manipulated to perform a partial chemical change or a whole one - converting the sugars into alcohol - the degree primarily depending on the
process used to consummate the act.

In the world of fruits - primarily grapes - the process is called fermentation. In other foods, primarily grains or root crops, it uses a process called distillation.

We have explored the world of wine to some degree, which depends upon fermentation to call forth the alcohol. Yeasts are added to fruit (usually grape) juice, which consume sugar and result in alcohol residue. That’s a quick and dirty on how to create wine. Beer is similarly made, but mostly from grain products.

The other way creates the great world of “Spirits,” which are an equal rival to wine and beer in the world’s consumption of alcohol. Gin, Vodka, Bourbon, Scotch, Irish, Rum, and, yes, brandy and even “White Lightning” all start out the same way. A liquid made from some starchy food product (the mash) is boiled to a high degree. The steam from this boil is captured, usually in a coiled contraption which slowly cools and condenses the steam. This retrieves alcohol which is captured within the mist. The process is called distillation - thus the term “still.” Clear “neutral” alcohol in liquid form is the result.

This alcohol is usually bitter and very high in potency. From this point, the ingenuity of man comes forth to create myriad versions of something generally referred to as “Aqua Vie” or the “Life Spirit.” The alcohol must be diluted to some extent and various flavors incorporated to make it palatable.

Storing the liquid in various types of wooden barrels, from which distinct flavors are pulled, is the most common means of creating distinct “liquors.” The ingredients used in the distillation process are, of course, also primary in determining the flavor and degree of alcohol content. In some cases, herbs or spices are added, or the brew is mingled with previously created batches, for a distinct taste.

Brandy is a universally accepted and desired product produced in this manner. It’s distinction is that it is almost always made from grapes. The “mash” is a mixture of grape juices (determined by law in many cases) which are boiled. The resulting liquid is then re-boiled and alcohol captured. To this liquid is added an additional mixture of fortified liquor, (various makers use their secret formulas) and a long process of aging is begun in various types of wooden barrels.

Brandies made in the Cognac area of France are labeled “Cognac,” and are made by a strict legal formula controlling wine from that area. Those made in the “Armagnac” district are similar, but distinct with their own flavors. Various connoisseurs swear by each version. Some makers distill the mix once, while others distill it twice for smoother taste. It’s interesting that most brandies are called “wine.” This is a result of grapes being used in most processes, but brandy and wine are definitely two distinct products.

Cognac and Armagnac are the two most famous versions of brandy, but many additional versions are made throughout the world. Far too many are sweet and somewhat simple, giving brandy a bad name in some circles. High alcohol content in a fruity, sweet liquid is sometimes accepted as a far distant relative. The differences, however, are profound.

Great brandy is an ethereal experience, consumed slowly and mingled with physical and psychological pleasure and intrigue. The best ones unlock hidden areas within the psyche which hold lofty reflections. They are constructed, not simply manufactured, and great artists create the best ones.

Generally speaking, brandy is best served and consumed from a wide bottomed glass with a fairly narrow enclosure at the top. This is sometimes referred to as a “Snifter,” which implies that the experience is enhanced by smell as well as taste. Gentle heating of the liquid through warmth transmitted from the hands is thought to aid in releasing alcohol infused with the myriad tastes.

Great brandy is expensive. So is a great marriage, and neither should be entered into without regard for its components or reverence for its merits.

My thoughts on the subject...