Mondavi responsible for American wine revolution

EN VINO VERITAS

By Noble Collins

Gazette Columnist

If wine was not so complicated, would it be as interesting? Perhaps not.

Everything about wine is somewhat complex and fascinating, from its origin to the way it is made and enjoyed. The labeling alone will drive you crazy.

We can start with some unique well known terms – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chablis, Chianti, etc. etc. Not too long ago, we Americans, in particular, generally identified wine by these designations. We knew Bordeaux and Burgundy were red and Chablis was white, and we hoped for something that tasted familiar when we ordered. American winemakers accommodated us by labeling their wines accordingly.

We weren’t alone in that. For a long time, early British wine drinkers simply ordered a Claret when ordering wine. Since they preferred the reds, that’s what they ordered – Claret.

As wine grew exponentially in popularity after World War II, the U.S. quickly became its biggest consumer (now, its biggest producer.). Service men and women came home from locations around the world where wine had always been a staple, quite commonly drunk more often than water. The water often was bad.

As the U.S. economy boomed in the Fifties and Sixties, demand for more and better wine came right along. The masses demanded a taste of what only well-heeled patrons had kept to themselves for generations. Interest in the many variations and styles of wine soon exploded.

Still, for a long time, wine was merely a commodity and we knew it by generic names. Until well into the Sixties and Seventies, most Americans were ordering a "red” or a “white.” Soon,one began to hear the more sophisticated, “Bordeaux,” “Chablis.” etc., but I dare say we still didn’t understand what we were ordering much different from “red” or “white.”

One American was determined to change that and elevate our knowledge and sensory experiences. He is primarily responsible for the revolution in American tastes in wine and efforts in winemaking. The name is Robert Mondavi.

Mondavi’s father operated a large fresh produce company in Lodi, California, which contracted for and sold a large amount of wine grapes among other things. The company later bought a well-known wine producer by the name of Charles Krug. and found a great outlet for their abundance of grapes. As a wine producer, The Krug brand grew to be a major player in the American wine business. Today, you will still find the name Charles Krug on many labels. Interestingly, as Mondavi wine became more familiar and in demand, Krug wines began labeling many of their products, C.K. Mondavi.

Robert grew restless, however, and wanted to produce great wines similar to the fine wines produced in France, known as “FirstGrowths.”  A family feud developed when Robert’s younger brother Peter sided with their mother to continue the successful Krug business and not venture into new territory. Robert was given a small inheritance, and he left the family.

Soon, he established The Robert Mondavi winery in Oakville California in the heart of the Napa Valley - a territory he felt was ideal for growing premium grapes. He began a practice of labeling his wines with their varietal names to identify the particular grape used. This later revolutionized the way wine was labeled in the U.S. and even around the world.

Mondavi’s dream was to rival the great “First Growths” in France, and he imported rootstock from there to establish his first grapevines. One of his first successes was a Sauvignon Blanc which he named “Fume’ Blanc” for its alleged smokiness. The term stuck, and many Sauvignon Blancs are now known as Fume’.

In most of the Old World, wines were known only by their region of origin. The best wines were further known by specific areas, and the absolute best were known by individual plots of land where it was believed the best grapes grew and the best winemakers practiced their art. The practice is still in place today, rigidly controlled by the government. It is extremely difficult to decipher unless one has studied the situation very carefully.

A true wine lover must do his homework to identify specific properties in order to enjoy a particular wine. This goes for all “Old World” wine (wine from a broad area in Europe where wine has been made for centuries.) The labels on these wines will identify the region and often the specific area and vineyard. It will almost never list the variety of grape.

Robert Mondavi saw that as a hindrance to understanding fine wine.

He was a pioneer in labeling wine by its grape variety. Soon, though, distinct properties began to stand out from the rest, and the practice of also identifying the area and even the winery began to take hold. In the "New World" (pretty much everywhere but Europe) you will usually find the variety of the grape dominating the label, however.

If you prefer a Chardonnay, you become aware that that grape produces a particular flavor, but varies by many factors depending on where and how it is grown and made. In the New World, if you prefer a Chardonnay the label will list the name of that grape prominently on the label. In Europe, however, if you prefer a particular Chardonnay, you will need to know the region and producer by name. The grape variety will seldom appear on the label.

Much more later

Grapes grow anywhere, but best in certain areas

EN VINO VERITAS

By Noble Collins

Gazette Columnist

Why must a great “First Growth” red wine comes from Bordeaux or Burgundy only, you might ask. The grapes grown there can be grown almost anywhere.

The answer comes from the French term “Terroir” which basically means land. In horse racing circles, you will frequently hear the adage, “horses for courses,” meaning some horses run better on particular race tracks. In wine terminology the best wines come from the best terroir or pieces of land, which bring out the best quality of the particular grape grown there.

Look at it this way: Let’s say I have ten marbles in my hand – each a different size and labeled with a different grape name. I also have a board with ten holes of varying sizes; each marked with a geographic name. Each marble will only fit into its matching hole. The marbles will seek out their best fit.

It might take hundreds of years, but when a certain grape is found to reach its absolute zenith in a certain area, it will be grown there under the most protective and productive circumstances. It will also draw the finest winemakers to extract the highest qualities from the grape and create wine of extraordinary appeal. These are the great wines in the world. They are great in the same way a Rolls Royce is a great automobile.

The French government has mandated a heirachy of properties based upon the consistent quality of their product . The system is known as AOC.

Each area has its best land and concentrates on specific grapes that thrive there. In Bordeaux, it is Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  In Burgundy, it is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are used in the Champagne district to make marvelous sparkling wines. They are the only grapes grown there, and the soil is really so chalky and poor that it’s a wonder any grapes grow at all.

Early wines made there contained sulfuric bubbles, which spoiled them. Someone had a hunch about the bubbles, though.

In the warmer areas of France, along the Rhone River, Districts like Vaqueras, Gigondas, Chatuneuf-Du-Pape and others grow Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier as their best examples. There again, you must know the area and the best properties to know the wine.

(Incidentally, the same goes for distilled spirits like Cognac and Armagnac. These are place names.)

We could also discuss the many wines being made in Italy, such as Chianti, Borolo, Asti, etc. The same rigid rules apply. Lately, Italy has allowed the use of varietal names such as Pinot Grigio to some extent.

German wine labels are probably the hardest to read and understand. Almost all their wine is made from Riesling, but it is important to know where it is made. Wines along the great rivers, such as Mosel, Saar, Rhur, and Rhine vary greatly in style and taste. Germans frequently throw in another piece of information on their labels to show their sugar levels or distinguish when the grapes were picked. 

(Watch for details on an exciting new series of wine tastings featuring Noble Collins to benefit Rim Country Friends of Ferals.)

Wine is fine, but brandy is dandy

En Vino Veritas
Great brandies, like great marriages, are expensive


By Noble Collins
Gazette Columnist
There are two ways to isolate alcohol from natural food by-products. In each case they involve freeing the alcohol from its chemical bondage with sugar.

Any food substance which produces natural sugar can be manipulated to perform a partial chemical change or a whole one - converting the sugars into alcohol - the degree primarily depending on the
process used to consummate the act.

In the world of fruits - primarily grapes - the process is called fermentation. In other foods, primarily grains or root crops, it uses a process called distillation.

We have explored the world of wine to some degree, which depends upon fermentation to call forth the alcohol. Yeasts are added to fruit (usually grape) juice, which consume sugar and result in alcohol residue. That’s a quick and dirty on how to create wine. Beer is similarly made, but mostly from grain products.

The other way creates the great world of “Spirits,” which are an equal rival to wine and beer in the world’s consumption of alcohol. Gin, Vodka, Bourbon, Scotch, Irish, Rum, and, yes, brandy and even “White Lightning” all start out the same way. A liquid made from some starchy food product (the mash) is boiled to a high degree. The steam from this boil is captured, usually in a coiled contraption which slowly cools and condenses the steam. This retrieves alcohol which is captured within the mist. The process is called distillation - thus the term “still.” Clear “neutral” alcohol in liquid form is the result.

This alcohol is usually bitter and very high in potency. From this point, the ingenuity of man comes forth to create myriad versions of something generally referred to as “Aqua Vie” or the “Life Spirit.” The alcohol must be diluted to some extent and various flavors incorporated to make it palatable.

Storing the liquid in various types of wooden barrels, from which distinct flavors are pulled, is the most common means of creating distinct “liquors.” The ingredients used in the distillation process are, of course, also primary in determining the flavor and degree of alcohol content. In some cases, herbs or spices are added, or the brew is mingled with previously created batches, for a distinct taste.

Brandy is a universally accepted and desired product produced in this manner. It’s distinction is that it is almost always made from grapes. The “mash” is a mixture of grape juices (determined by law in many cases) which are boiled. The resulting liquid is then re-boiled and alcohol captured. To this liquid is added an additional mixture of fortified liquor, (various makers use their secret formulas) and a long process of aging is begun in various types of wooden barrels.

Brandies made in the Cognac area of France are labeled “Cognac,” and are made by a strict legal formula controlling wine from that area. Those made in the “Armagnac” district are similar, but distinct with their own flavors. Various connoisseurs swear by each version. Some makers distill the mix once, while others distill it twice for smoother taste. It’s interesting that most brandies are called “wine.” This is a result of grapes being used in most processes, but brandy and wine are definitely two distinct products.

Cognac and Armagnac are the two most famous versions of brandy, but many additional versions are made throughout the world. Far too many are sweet and somewhat simple, giving brandy a bad name in some circles. High alcohol content in a fruity, sweet liquid is sometimes accepted as a far distant relative. The differences, however, are profound.

Great brandy is an ethereal experience, consumed slowly and mingled with physical and psychological pleasure and intrigue. The best ones unlock hidden areas within the psyche which hold lofty reflections. They are constructed, not simply manufactured, and great artists create the best ones.

Generally speaking, brandy is best served and consumed from a wide bottomed glass with a fairly narrow enclosure at the top. This is sometimes referred to as a “Snifter,” which implies that the experience is enhanced by smell as well as taste. Gentle heating of the liquid through warmth transmitted from the hands is thought to aid in releasing alcohol infused with the myriad tastes.

Great brandy is expensive. So is a great marriage, and neither should be entered into without regard for its components or reverence for its merits.

My thoughts on the subject...

Sparkling wine one of four holiday favorites

En Vino Veritas
Fermented spirits encourage
lifting of emotional spirit

By Noble Collins
Gazette Columnist
The most festive period of the year is upon us: Thanksgiving, Chanukah, Christmas and New Year’s Day packed together within a few short weeks. Also, reluctant to give up the holiday atmosphere, we more and more stretch it out to include the conclusion of football season, right up to the Super Bowl. Then, another week or so and we have Valentine’s Day. The more intrepid among us make it through without a scratch, but most likely not without a stretch (in our waist size).

Around the world, in the richest and poorest places, folks battle the increasing cold and lengthening darkness with bright lights and their best food and drink. It is during this period when we are most often introduced to new tastes, flavors and especially libations.

The emphasis is on gaiety and celebration.

Four wines, in particular, come into their own during this period – Sparkling wine, Port, Sherry, and Brandy. These are, of course, year-round favorites for many reasons, but more of them are consumed during holiday season than at any other time of year.

Sparkling wine leads the list by a wide margin. Bubbles are the reason. They convey visual fun as much as they are physically pleasing. They encourage a lifting of emotional spirit along with the fermented spirits. The bubbles are trapped CO2 gas which take the express route to our brain, delivering their cargo of ethyl alcohol with a Fred Astaire stylishness.

It most likely originated in France, and the means for storing it within a bottle definitely did. That credit goes to a monk by the name of Dom Perignon. Although some facts are disputed, great contributions were made by this man toward making Champagne the widely heralded wine it has become.

Sparkling wine is made around the world. Only within the Champagne district of France, however, with its chalky soil and cool climate, can it legally be called Champagne. This was always the case, but somewhat ignored until recently when international agreements with the ECU (European Common Union) became recognized and binding. Spain calls their sparkling wine Cava. In Australia, the particular varietal is featured, such as Sparkling Shiraz or Sparkling Grenache. In much of the rest of the world, it is still called Champagne, but that will change rapidly.

The wine from Champagne is strictly controlled. The rules restrict the types of grapes which can be used to three: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The various batches of juice go through a normal fermentation as usual and are separated into many different “lots.” The winemaker then chooses from among the various lots for the final blend, looking for an individual style and taste. When the blend is finalized, a small amount of “tirage” is added, consisting of yeast, sugar and wine. This is bottled and tightly capped.

As yeasts consume the sugar, a second fermentation occurs creating slightly more alcohol and a resulting carbon dioxide gas trapped within the wine. The bottles are racked at a slight angle and are slowly turned downward until the spent yeast cells and any other sediment is eventually captured in the bottle’s neck. This usually takes at least one year. Once the bottles have finished this “riddling” process, the plug of sediment is removed by flash freezing the neck and disgorging the plug. The small volume of liquid which is lost is replaced by topping off the wine with a “dosage” consisting of reserve wine and sugar. This ultimately determines the level of sweetness in the final product. The various levels of sweetness (or dryness) are classified as Brut, Extra Dry, Sec, Doux, etc. Curiously, Extra Dry is sweeter than Brut.

Carbon dioxide gas remains trapped within the wine under enormous pressure, requiring a thick bottle, a wire-bound very tight cork, and usually a heavy foil “cape” to contain it. Great care must always be exercised when opening a bottle. Once the pressure is released, millions of tiny bubbles form as the gas attempts to escape. An old adage states that, “The tinier the bubbles, the better the wine.”

Serving Champagne cold is absolutely necessary in order to slow the bubbling activity. Good Champagne should never be degraded by “exploding” it from the bottle - either from warmth or by shaking it. This is dangerous and it spoils good wine.

The highest rated sparkling wines all use this traditional method or something quite similar in creating their product. It is known as methode champenoise or methode traditionale (fermented in the bottle) and will be indicated as such on the label. A cheaper and widely used method is called the bulk or Charmat process in which CO2 gas is injected into large (usually stainless steel) vats of bulk wine and quickly bottled. They are, perhaps, festive and fun, but they hold no comparison to the elegant champenoise wines. Labels must indicate the process used, and are, thus, one of the first means of selecting the desired product.

The single greatest exception to this rule is found in Italy, where the world’s largest quantity of sparkling wine is produced. The wines are known as Spumante (foaming) and the best come from an area in the Piedmont known as Asti, named for the town and region of Asti. These wines are made by a modified version of the Cremant (bulk) process, but are more controlled by holding the original crush in near freezing conditions which prevents immediate fermentation. As needed, batches are then revived and fermented in a controlled manner which does not allow all the sugar to be converted into alcohol. A wide variety of grapes is allowed in the mix, and those with a degree of sweetness and floral qualities make the best wines.

Many of these wines found their way into the U.S. after WWII. Unfortunately the most popular were the cheap “sweeties” which gave them a lower class designation and still cloud the reputation of some very fine and unique wines. Foaming wine from Asti (Asti Spumante) can be as thrilling and elegant an experience as any sparkling wine, depending upon the care taken to produce it. The bubbles don’t last as long as good Champagne, though.

This brief overview of sparkling wine is certainly not meant to be comprehensive. Many excellent books have been written on the subject and should be mined for a more detailed
investigation. As always, I believe wine “should be enjoyed by the enjoyer,” but it is rarely a one dimensional experience, and the mind can play a definitive role in the enjoyment.

Next - The fortified wines - Brandy, Port and Sherry.

Salud!

To study wine is to study civilization

Photo by Jim Keyworth
En Vino Veritas:
To study wine is to study civilization

By Noble Collins
Gazette Columnist

We were talking about wine, as I recall, and I was saying that, generally speaking, I enjoy it.

There are somewhere around 2,000 different grape varieties in the world, some of which make really awful wine no matter how you treat them; but Enlightened Mankind has pretty much narrowed down the best ones and knows the secrets to making delicious quaffs from them.
The best are known as “Vitis Vinifera,” the Noble Grapes. I take no personal credit for this.

They include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Grenache. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Also, Petite Syrah, Petite Verdot, Mourvedre, and Carignane. Semillion, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Orvietto have a place, as do Gruner Vetliner, Sangiovese and Nebiolo, not to mention Tempranillo. There are others, Sylvaner comes to mind, as do Viogner and Albarino. What I am saying is that if you don’t particularly care for one, there are lots of others to try.

If you are very lucky, someone will come along to offer you a glass of wine made from one of the lesser-known varietals, and it will be magnificent. Winemakers, good ones, are as near to alchemists as we are ever likely to encounter. The winemaker determines the ultimate taste and effect the wine will have in a person’s experience. He or she uses the best ingredients, of course, but ultimately the process is as much an art as a science.

Good winemakers are as passionate about their wine as a painter is about his brush strokes. It must be said, however, that grapes like Concord, Thompson Seedless, Muscadine and numerous other “common” varieties will only make fairly common wines, kinda like painting by numbers.
To fully understand the complexities of wine, one should study the history of wine, and to do so, one must study the history of civilization. They are inseparable.

In addition, It would be beneficial to study archaeology, genetics, geology, geography, agriculture, chemistry, commerce and a host of other subjects. The nice little Chianti you had with your lasagna last night has a genealogy as worthy of study as your eccentric Aunt Martha.
You could, of course, just leave study to scholars and simply enjoy wine for its own sake. That’s what most folks do, and for very good reasons. Few, if any, libations bring more complete involvement with the occasion, interest in the ingredients and simple satisfaction with their presence.

Good wine is a multi-dimensional entity with a personality. It is frequently accepted as an additional member of the party and invites open discussion as to its acceptance. It is primarily meant to be a companion, to be enjoyed with food or to be part of a celebration.

It would be rare, indeed, to overhear a conversation concerning the particular aspects of one’s Coca Cola or bottled water, on how well they compliment the food. Beer has its devotees, of course, but it seems more independent, if not indifferent. Heavier spirits exist for themselves alone. Only wine seems to fill the roles of servant or acclaimed guest with equal aplomb.

In the book of Genesis (one of the world’s oldest writings) Noah is said to have made winemaking one of his top priorities after finding dry ground. The ancient Greeks were so impressed with the properties of wine that they assumed a god must be responsible and named it Dionysus. Romans called their wine god Baccus. Egyptians placed jars of wine in burial sites of major figures, assuming they would enjoy it in a later life.

There is archaeological evidence that wine was made and stored at least as far back as the Sumerians, the earliest known civilization. Throughout history, wine has played a major role in commerce and ceremony and in daily life, of course.

Thomas Jefferson was so obsessed with attempting to grow French varietals on his Virginia plantation that he spent much of his fortune and a great deal of his time in the effort. Sadly, it resulted in one of the few failures in his life. Good grapes will grow there, but not the great ones.

George Washington was said to be a teetotaler, but some suspicious stains were found on a set of his false teeth.

Jimmy Carter banned wine from official ceremonies in the White House and lost his bid for re-election. On and on.

Whether one drinks wine (or any other beverage) is his or her personal choice. It makes a fascinating study no matter what one’s preferences.

Anyone remember Gregor Mendel? Later, we will discuss how some Mendel types first discovered how to create the great varietals of grapes from common wild ones.
Salud!